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Aug 13, 2009

I have just made my seventh visit to Sumatra, and the first on which I have been able to add on some holiday or non-work related activities. As a consequence I now find myself in Bali for the first time.
In Sumatra I was able to visit Bukittinggi as a tourist and Lake Toba. Both I had seen a number of times before, as we whizzed by on organic inspection trips. I also visited the Orang-utan Conservation Park at Bukit Lawang.
What a land of contradictions Indonesia is. There is enormous wealth of natural resources and great poverty, the people are extremely friendly, but there is potential for a scam everywhere. The chaos on the roads is hard to describe to anyone who has not seen it firsthand. Jakarta roads have at least 8 million motorbikes on them every day. Everyone is pushing to get through first. It is surprising that even more people are not killed on the roads - although many are. Overloaded trucks on the narrow, windy mountain roads are a nightmare. One driver told me he does do maintenance on his truck - but only when it breaks down! The roads themselves are narrow, potholed, sometimes only half there due to landslides, and almost never is there a guardrail to be seen (or directional signage). I have driven across a road washed out by landslide, where the outside tyres were supported by planks laid across the missing road and the drop was virtually shear for a hundred metres.
Also frustrating is the inability of most locals to take instructions - as pointed out to me by a Sumatran friend and confirmed on numerous occasions, they just do not listen. To order drinks without (enormous quantities of) sugar, or ice-cream without yucky chocolate sprinkles, or indeed anything at all out of the usual local practice, takes extreme patience and multiple attempts.
Another contradiction is the incredible beauty of local natural and manmade landscapes (especially rice fields) and the ugly, dirty, uncared for aspect of the country. Rubbish is everywhere, piled high on the roadsides until washed out to sea by monsoonal rains or set alight to smoulder for days.
It is so sad to see the rainforest destroyed for pine or palm oil plantations, with the resultant loss of biodiversity, especially loss of habitat for orang-utan, elephant, tiger, rhino, tapir, monkey and hundreds if not thousands of plant species.
One of the highlights of this trip was to see a rafflesia in the wild for the first time - startling, dramatic and beautiful. Another highlight, surprisingly, was the intensely emotional experience of standing in front of the memorial to those killed in the first Bali bombings, reading the long list of names of people and countries represented. I found it hard to imagine the chaos and agony of everyone affected - what a terrible crime to have perpetrated on the tourists, but also upon the gentle people of Bali.
I have visited Aceh during the war years and stayed in a hotel where the local Hajj was meeting. They were extremely friendly and welcoming. The only hope I can see for a reduction in terrorism from extreme religious and political violence is for responsible, pious Muslim leaders to take a strong stand against their own few murderous compatriots. And here again is one of the many great contradictions of this place - that some can read into the Koran an instruction for peace, kindliness and acceptance, and others can find a justification for hatred and destruction.